In this autobiographical account of life in the capital of the Solomon Islands, Michael Kwa?oloa reflects on the challenges of raising a family in town and sustaining ties with a distant rural homeland on Malaita island. Continuing the long tradition of Kwara?e community leaders participating in political activism, he discusses how the roles of these leaders were severely tested by the violent conflict between Malaitans and the indigenous Guadalcanal people at the turn of the century. Kwa?oloa provides a local perspective on the causes and course of this unhappy episode in his country? history and describes a need for a way of life founded upon ancestral values, giving chiefs a role in the governance of Solomon Islands.